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From the Marche shoemaking heartland, Mattia Capezzani builds sculptural Italian footwear—front‑zip boots, Chelsea silhouettes, refined derbies, and compact sneakers—cut in supple calf and finished by hand. On the shelf: chunky, extra‑light platform “Shark” boots alongside sleek Vincent Chelseas with leather soles, lace‑ups with wide moc toes, and pared‑back sneakers that echo the same clean last. The design mood is modern and grounded: dark palettes, tactile leathers, hardware used only where function demands it. Everything is made in Italy, with production rooted in a family‑run factory in Montecosaro, Macerata.
Silhouette & construction
Proportions that read strong, feel light
Capezzani leans into round toes, clean vamp lines, and tall, close ankles that sharpen the profile. Platform pairs ride on featherweight, treaded bottoms that deliver height without burden; slimmer dress styles keep a near‑flat stance and a tight ankle for a tailored line. Front‑zip boots frame the leg with a single metal closure, while elastic‑gored Chelseas sink the shaft cleanly into the instep for a glove‑like feel.
The make
Two toolkits run in parallel. Dress‑leaning models such as Vincent employ traditional Blake stitching with leather soles for a crisp flex and easy future resoling. Utility‑leaning boots and some sneakers use cemented constructions with customized extra‑light rubber platforms for cushion and grip. Uppers are cut mostly from full‑grain calf—smooth, nubuck, or suede—lined in calf for comfort and shape retention. Reinforced counters hold the heel; insoles are leather or leather‑topped foam depending on the model.
Details that matter day to day
Heel tabs and long zip pulls speed entry. Elastic gussets extend higher up the ankle to seal the shaft without bulk. Treads are wide‑set to keep the platform stable; toe springs are measured so the boot rolls forward naturally. Expect considered heights—many platforms add roughly 3–4 cm—while keeping the center of gravity underfoot.
Materials & finish
Calf leather, worked for touch
Smooth calf polishes to a low glow and molds to the foot. Nubuck and suede reads matte and velvety; brushing restores the nap. Several styles specify vegetable‑tanned calf, prized for depth of color and the way it burnishes with wear. Linings are predominantly calf for breathability and a dry, secure hold on the foot.
Soles: extra‑light platforms and classic leather
Chunky pairs sit on customized extra‑light rubber platforms. The foam‑rubber blend keeps weight down, so a tall boot still feels agile; traction lugs are sculpted but not aggressive. Dress pairs switch to leather soles with Blake stitching, sometimes with a rubber forepart for quiet grip on wet pavements.
Hardware and color
Zips and eyelets stay tonal. Colors run black, espresso, sand, and occasional metallics or washed tones from hand‑brushing. You’ll also see seasonal fabric plays—denim or canvas panels—always anchored by leather where stress hits.
Signatures & icons
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Shark boot: a chunky Chelsea variant with a rounded toe and a distinctive extra‑light platform; elastic at sides, pull tabs front/back for quick entry.
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Vincent Chelsea: sleek ankle boot on a leather sole with Blake construction; close shaft, minimal stitch density, dress‑ready proportion.
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Front‑zip boot: high‑top silhouette in vegetable‑tanned calf with a single metal zip and a lightweight platform; reads industrial, wears easy.
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Wide‑moc derby: bold apron seam and roomy toe box on a lugged, extra‑light base; balances tailoring or denim.
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Mamba sneaker: low profile with pared‑back panels and a firm cup sole that matches the brand’s clean lasts.
How to wear it now
Workweek, precise
Vincent Chelsea under a slim‑hem trouser and compact blazer. Keep the break short so the ankle reads clean; a fine‑gauge knit keeps the look light.
Evening, cool elevation
Front‑zip platform boots with straight black denim and a soft leather jacket. A single metal zip = the only hardware you need.
Weekend, texture
Wide‑moc derbies in brushed suede with relaxed cargo trousers and a heavy Oxford. Let the platform add height; cuff once to clear the tread.
City travel, miles ahead
Shark Chelseas with a tapered tech pant and ribbed knit. Low weight equals all‑day wear; elastic gores speed airport security.
Fit & sizing notes
Sizing system: EU sizing. Many models run slightly generous through length and instep; some retailers advise going down one size in specific lace‑ups and platform boots. If you’re between sizes, first consider sock weight and whether you prefer a snug dress fit or room for thicker socks.
Last and volume: Toes are round with balanced width; dress lasts are neater through the waist, platform lasts add cushion and a touch more fore‑foot room. Instep feels secure rather than tight.
Chelsea & front‑zip boots: Shafts are close by design. If you have a high instep or wide ankle, measure against the circumference spec and consider a size down only if the length still works.
Sneakers & loafers: Sneakers track true to size. Loafers fit closer and may relax after a few wears; initial snugness at the heel is normal for slip‑on security.
Care & longevity
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Smooth calf: Brush dust off, then wipe with a barely damp cloth. Condition sparingly with neutral cream, buff to a low sheen. Avoid saturating vegetable‑tanned leather; it darkens with oils by nature.
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Nubuck/suede: Use a soft brush to lift the nap; apply a silicone‑free protector before first wear and after cleaning. Keep away from oily cleaners.
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Extra‑light platforms: Clean with mild soap and water; avoid solvents and high heat that can distort the compound. Deep scuffs can be pared by a cobbler.
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Leather soles: Use a thin rubber half‑sole if you need grip and wet resistance; let leather dry fully between wears.
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Storage: Shoe trees in smooth calf; paper fill in boot shafts to hold height. Keep away from direct heat sources.
Heritage & today
Designer Mattia Capezzani launched his namesake label in the mid‑2010s and serves as founder‑designer today. Production sits in Montecosaro, Macerata, within a family factory founded in the 1970s that has long manufactured shoes for luxury houses alongside its own brand. The company trades as Capezzani S.r.l., with collections spanning sneakers, boots, lace‑ups, monks, and ankle boots. Seasonal campaigns and wholesale showings align with the Italian calendar, including Pitti Uomo presentations and showroom appointments. The through‑line remains clear: Italian materials, hand‑worked leathers, modern lasts, and a choice between platform ease and dress‑sole precision.
Responsibility
The brand communicates through product, not manifestos. What’s verifiable: Made in Italy production under one roof, short supply lines within the Marche district, and frequent use of vegetable‑tanned calf on select models. Platform compounds are lightweight to reduce transport weight and wearer fatigue. There is no public certification dashboard; assess impact via materials listed per style, serviceability (resole options on Blake‑stitched pairs), and how often you’ll wear the shoes.